729a. Sun 16/6/19 Ambräusianum GmbH, Bamberg

Beer: Ambräusianum Bernstein Weizen 5.3%

A second visit, and a second time meeting at Ambräusianum. It’s a great place. I’m with SDK and Candida, who are leaving today. SRW and AW are also off. We’re joined by TPK and SA.

SDK’s set his heart on an Ambräusianum beer glass. He has a token and some wild notion that this token entitles him to take a glass home. He (SDK) was given this token last night as a deposit on a glass which, he explains, can either be redeemed or swapped for a souvenir glass. The server hears him out patiently. 

‘So,’ SDK concludes, having made a watertight case, ‘can I buy this glass?’

‘No,’ the barman replies.

Things go downhill after that. SDK and the barman come to some kind of arrangement viz the procurement of a glass, and there’s much chat about the Six Million Dollar people.

754a. Fri 21/6/19: The Jackalope, Marylebone, London

Beer: East London Brewery Foundation Bitter 4.2%

After two days hard working waving coaches full of school kids down and trying to persuade the recalcitrant drivers to bugger off the campus later in the day, I’m looking forward to meeting some of my old uni mates. 

In the event, only one of them shows up. Naffin’ ell.

It’s a disappointment, naturally, but still, good to chew the fat with SG. We talk far too long about jazz music, but it’s ultimately good for the soul. We have a jazz “club” and need to revisit the difficult and demanding rules we’ve built up around it.

And we do so, sat inside a very decently refurbished pub. All good stuff. I’ve been here before and realise it’s the old Dover Castle. It was good when we came here a few years ago (in the Dover Castle days), and apart from the slightly daft name, is good now. Busy outside; plenty of space indoors. 

We wonder where to move onto next. At this point, neither of our other friends has cancelled, though we get the news about the first just as we’re leaving.

720. Fri 14/6/19: The Jack Fairman, Horley

Beer: Rudgate Ruby Mild 4.4%

My surprise 50^th birthday holiday begins; Steph had let me know, a day or two in advance, that it would start with an overnight stay at Gatwick. Fine, ‘cause I liked that micropub in Horley (see episode #513). We start though in the lovely JDW’s, dedicated to a local garage owner who also raced Formula One cars in the 1950’s. No Sterling Moss: but some nice b/w pics on the walls. We’ve been here before too (see episode #514).

The late afternoon crowd on a Friday is mainly made up of elderly/retired folk nursing pints and cups of coffee. JDWs are part day centre. It’s poignantly charming, in a way and/or a bit depressing.

Anyway, I’ve no idea where we’re flying to tomorrow: I’m almost sure it’ll be an Easyjet flight, and suspect we’re bound for Southern Spain, what with Steph advising I pack sandals, guayaberas and a cricket sun hat. Suits me. In the meantime… it’s faintly dreary here in Horley, but the beer is very good.

719e. Thu 13/6/19: Gilden im Zims, Altstadt, Köln

Beer: Gaffel Kölsch 4.8%

Des is keen that I should have a Kölsch or two. I try some different ones out. As it happens, the Gilden in Zims’ brand is the same as the Die Ex-Vertretung, where we’d met up. 

I’d been given a couple of differing opinions of Kölsch; AW didn’t seem that keen, while German Tim was more enthusiastic. As someone with little in the way of discerning taste, I find it great, though not that much different from a Pils. Or lager. Still, given that we’re in Germany, this is a good thing.

This is my first encounter with the teeny tiny Kölsch glasses as well. I regard these with dismay when they’re first laid down in front of us, but a waiter’s always on hand to refresh. Not the worst system. 

Gilden im Zims is on one of the corners of what I suspect is Altstadt’s main square. It looks unassuming from the outside and unassuming as you enter. It does, however, go back a fair way. And up, and down. There are various nooks and corners on quite a scale, set up to welcome more tourists (by the look of things) than are in here at the moment. The most striking feature, I suppose, is the subterranean mezzanine level walk to the loo, which overlooks a couple of smaller bars which look a little like chapels. Which gives the place an ever so slightly creepy aspect.

728a. Sat 15/6/19: Klosterbräu, Bamberg, Germany

Beer: Klosterbräu Bamberger Braunbier 5.3%

We’re two hostelries and no more than three drinks in, but already, group cohesion is coming apart. The walk from the Schlernkela to Klosterbräu is successfully negotiated by TPK, SA, JfCTH, Lidia and CJ. I take it upon myself to go back for SRW and AW (we notice silver birches in and chalk etchings above a number of doorways). However, we lose SDK and Candida.

Klosterbräu is high up on the list of places those with lists of places to visit. The beer’s excellent. We take it outdoors, but are soon asked to move indoors. There appears to be a ‘staff only’ pub garden, which is slightly confusing. AW has a book of colours, which I mock. I ask her the colour of happiness. When pushed, she tells me it’s Ketchup Red. Actually, she says ‘tomato red’. Either way, I smell a rat.

We’re soon rejoined by SDK and Candida. They ask for tips of places to go in New York and are interested in my experience of going to see the Mets play. Other than that, I’m useless, although AW comes in and gives them some pretty decent sounding advice.

718c. Thu 6/6/19: The Crush Bar, Luton

Beer: Backyard Brew Shed Head 4.6%

Utter night at The Crush Bar. This evening has a strong bill, a few people in and plenty of chat. There have been occasions, of late, when one or more of these components has not applied, but tonight, everything works a treat. 

Still, LN has a few issues with the box office takings. I’m happy to help him out. The immediate situation is helped, in part, with the disappearance of the drag act, who sets off to London, presumably, without picking up his/her/their expenses. Shame, as s//they – Rachel Pantechnicon – was really good. Elf shelves and cheese graters are only the start of it.

722. Fri 14/6/19: Fifty-four, Horley

Beer: Surrey Hills Brewery Shere Drop 4.2%

Absolutely loved this ramshackle micropub in the November cold Pre-Prague last year (#513). Bathed in early evening June sunshine, with temperature to match, naturally affords the place a different light.

That would be fine. Should be fine. There’s only one other fella in, a local, so there’s plenty of vacant seating from where we should be able to sit and take in the chaotic majesty of the place.

Can’t though. Much of the seating area, right up to the bar, is being used to shelf all sorts of other junk: amps and tarpaulin, assorted sheeting, apparently ready to be picked up by a man in a van. It’s Horley Carnival tomorrow. He should arrive anytime soon.

In the meantime, the seating lack means we’re stood tight at the bar: virtually sitting on the lap of the aforementioned regular. He and the barman chat, somewhat guardedly. Frankly, given the way-too-close proximity of us interlopers, it’s a little socially awkward. The beer is fine, but it’s suddenly somewhere from where we want to sup up and move on.

That’s a shame. This is still a fantastic place – and the fact that it fell short for us this time, is only as a result for their doing their bit for the local civic shindig. I’d still recommend this decidedly odd little place, as the best argument for staying a pre-flight night at one of Gatwick’s budget hotels.

Check flight times, and date of Horley Carnival, before making your booking.

751. Thu 20/6/19: S’Wirtshaus, München

Beer: Paulaner Munchner Dunkel 5%

We’re finding our way round Munich, through rain and booze addlement, and end up walking out of the town centre and back towards our hotel. That’s fine, we’re three drinks away from calling it a night anyway.

This place is markedly different from the tourist trap beer halls in the centre of town. Unfortunately, but for the crowds, I’ve got to admit I like the olde worlde beer halls better than places like this… apparently decorated in the 1980’s. It’s alright, dimly lit, comfortably furnished, American pop videos on the telly. Decent beer served unassumingly without contrived glee or pretense.

We drink up, then go back to the hotel.

749. Thu 20/6/19: Paulaner im Tal, München

Beer: Paulaner Munchner Dunkel 5%

It’s still pouring down outside, so we duck in here. Looks alright. I’m quite a fan of Paulaner beer in The Bear Club, so I’m quite happy.

Would be fine, but for one young American lady sat at a table – twenty feet away – with three other people, another girl and an older couple. I presume they’re American too, but can’t hear them. I can certainly hear her. She’s SHOUTING at the others. It’s wince inducing – and entirely unnecessary (if the older couple are deaf – how come nobody else has to raise their voice?). After a while the mature couple who, as has been broadcast to the whole of Bavaria, live in the vicinity of shouty lady back in the States, move on. Them gone, the two girls’ conversation returns to normal/polite levels.

Outside the lavs a lady sits behind the desk. I wonder whether one has to pay to pee but, no, it becomes apparent that she’s just begging. I tell her that I only have English money (it’s true, Steph holds the purse strings on holiday). She says that’s fine. I give her 50p.

Pub is big and bright and airy. Beer is fine.

728. Sat 15/6/19: Klosterbräu, Bamberg

Beer: Klosterbräu Braunbier 5%

Wise John recommended this place; the oldest brewery in Bamberg (established in 1533). It’s also just a stone’s throw from our digs in town. We sit outside the bar and wonder about the monk on the beermats and the great big umbrellas under which we’re sat (see the picture – the monk in mirror image). What, we discuss, is he holding in the hand which isn’t holding a flagon of beer? Nothing… obviously, it’s his index finger BUT we’d had more than a few strong beers. Is it a little sausage? A white chocolate finger?

We get moved from the roadside tables into benches inside the pub courtyard. It’s been a long day, lovely, mind: seeing so many pals turn out for me birthday treat.

The place closes up and we disperse – the others go onto another pub but we, certainly I, have had enough. We go round the corner and retire to our accommodation.