1647. Tue 5/12/23: Restaurace U staré pošty, Prague

Beer: Pilsner Urquell 4.4%

Here, just outside the station, to see AJK off. Explanation of his convoluted trek home, frankly, takes the romance right out of international train travel. He’s got a few connections to make – and a five hour wait, starting at 5am, at some Germany station or other. Much as I don’t like flying…it’s all done in a few hours.

Back in Praha the abrupt/dodgy service at U staré pošty extends, not to a warm welcome, rather a stern notification that they don’t accept credit/debit cards. Not here. We do not ask “will you accept a cheque?”, even given the delicious pun. Previous experience here has gradually engendered the idea that tourists aren’t necessarily welcome here.

As it is – not too busy – there’s a spare table in the front. The service is gruff, but fine, and one deigns to feel a little better about being here. It’s a decent pub.

Sport on the telly is indoor football. Plzen are thrashing “HEL” 5-0 in a sports hall.

Me brother bids us farewell, which is a little sad.

We’d planned to stay out and try to find a pub screening Luton Town v Arsenal later, but we’re a little soused already and (probably for the best) we don’t get to do that.

1657. Fri 15/12/23: The Bricklayers Arms, Luton

Beer: Vale Black Beauty 4.4%

Get in before AJK. Go through to the back bar. I have my latest batch of Café Royal photobooks – lots of late 20^th Century Northern urban realism, for the poignant delectation of a 21^st Century Southern middle-class audience… s’alright.

There’s a wake on in the front bar. There’s lots of wakes these days.

We’re in the back, in the orbit of the Luton Labour A Team. They’re loud. We play chess. AJK has been to a works Christmas do. He’s two pints ahead of me. I win chess.

Too many black ties to have a nice little sit by the tree in the front bar tonight.

I talk to Al for the first time since hearing the news that she’ll be off in the summer. I tell her “good for you, bad for us”, and mean it wholeheartedly. We’ll miss her terrible when she rides off into the sunset and away from Hightown… and Hightown won’t be Hightown so much when they go… just as it was diminished when Gazza, Theresa, the Scand’… lots of  others too – once of this Parish, but gone away for pastures new.

I’m not here to mourn, not me, not tonight. The beer is very good.

1660. Sat 16/12/23: The Windmill Inn, Rugby

Beer: Black Country Ales Fireside 5.0%

Second pub of the (late) afternoon sees us again at our devices, trying to glean news of LT captain Tom Lockyer who has collapsed at Bournemouth. It doesn’t look good, but we take some comfort in the information we have gleaned, which suggests he was at least conscious and responsive…

This pub is new to us, and it’s pretty good. Loads of beer. One suspects that the CAMRA purist wouldn’t like it ‘cause, presumably, some of these beers will only stay fresh under keg pressure. I’m a bit ambivalent about that argument – though I have nagging concerns over too much choice. Three or four ales, served from a cask, if in good condition, will stay fresh… do we need a choice of two dozen?

The Fireside Ale is fine.

News from Bournemouth is that TM has suffered a cardiac arrest. Bloody hell. We toast the health of our club’s captain.

Very decent pub – overriding parochial concerns don’t allow us to give it the credit deserved.

1645. Mon 4/12/23: U Sadu, Žižkov, Prague

Beer: Pilsner Urquell 4.4%

The new seasonal menu is out. It’s Christmas themed, though not in the way we know it. We sit on the first proper table in the middle (upstairs main/tourist bar). I order 200g Pečený bůček Luciferem na chilli a medu mačkane brambory s restouvanou cibulkou (roasted pork belly with chilli, honey mashed potatoes and sauteed onions). I’m very enthusiastic over these little seasonal menus. The devil is part of local festive folklore. Lucifer gets to hang about with (a Czech rather a Coca-Cola) Father Christmas and an angel at this time of year – we see them in St Wenceslas Square.

Me brother and SA have fried cheese, again. Their mealtime excitement is dented accordingly.

My meal is splendid. Excellent, even. The chilli is unexpectedly hot, but if one dabbles with the devil in the menu detail, what should one expect?

Rounds off the evening, all that food. Delicious.

1647a. Tue 5/12/23: Restaurace U staré pošty, Prague

Beer: Pilsner Urquell 4.4%

Last beer, for me, on this trip. I need somewhere near the station. TPK and SA were barred from entry into Pošty by a sour-faced barman on their way into Prague, some days earlier. The same sour-face lets me in, no problem, although the way he advises us the establishment doesn’t accept cards indicates he has anger issues.

Oh well.

This is my last beer before I face the overnight train to Karlsruhe. On the way over, I had to change a couple of times. I was advised, earlier in the day, that this won’t be necessary. I’m not counting on it, but at least the snow hasn’t brought everything to a complete, grinding halt.